I have bought the material needed to build the strut compression stand - tomorrow and the day after that i will weld.

I have completed the drawings for the strut compression stand and it looks like this:

( 'Tellised' is bricks - the rest explains how it works: basically I bolt the strut in the center and load bricks on it to see how much it compresses )
In The future I'll make my drawings bilingual.

I now have 100% of the main parts i need to build a driving chassis for the ATV.
I'd like to thank everyone who helped me.

I'm right on schedual and in May 2005 I will complete the build of my ATV, the A-One Terra 200/350 Geniva
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in other news:
Daylight in Estonia is getting longer and longer. so I have more and more time to weld, since I need to do it outside due to fire hazards

January has been full of succes. I only hope this will continue.

The whole schedule is put forward by 7 days due to reasons not linked to the project.

Today I tried to get my Voshod (The premilinary engine donor to the Terra project) to start.
If it was in first gear I could hear the engine trying to run, so the engine should be working. However when I kickstarted it I trimmed the axle of kickstart pedal - it was to loose. The new kickstart axle costs about 150 EEK (€ 10), I'll try to restore the axle by welding new material on it. If I fail I'll just buy a new one.

In other news: I unmounted the speedometer from my old ZAZ-986M - When the ATV is running and I'm ion the 'final-touch' stage, I'll make a custom speedometer housing complete with ignition switch and lightswitch (as of March 2005 - I'll be using a digital speedometer - not the analogue one i got off of the ZAZ). The front panel of the housing will be a brushed Aluminium plate. Its also hoing to have a fuel and an engine temperature gage on it. Not sure yet what i need - thats why its one of the last tasks to be done building the ATV.

I compiled myself a complete step by step list of things to be done.
If I follow it 100% then the end result will be ATV A-One Terra 200/350 Geniva.
You can see the list by clicking on 'Schedule' in the menubar.

so...
I did a small price-check:
Mudguards: sheet metal Zn (350gZn/m²) 61,50 EEK/m² +18% @ ~3,6 kg/m²
Bushings for the rear swingarm: 2x 135 EEK.- polyurethane truck bushings (inner diameter 1,5cm
Bushings for the front swingarms: 12x rubber (12 EEK.- a´) - not sure if I'm gonna use them yet, because I can't afford polyurethane in the front - its 10 times more expensive.
More information about polyurethane:
http://www.powerflex.co.uk/universalbush.asp
http://www.superflex.co.uk/superflex_universal_pin_fitting_-_link_pin_bushes.html

It's made of a special plastical alloy which is very strong. Unlike standard rubber bushings, polyurethane bushings are very easy to install and replace. While 1 rubber bushing needs forces up to 25 metric tonnes to push it in to its housing then the polyurethane bushing simply consists of two parts which are inserted into the housing at both sides and held together in the middle by a simple smooth iron pipe. Polyurethane bushings are also supreme by simple lifetime and shock resistance, they also allow the swingarm to move greater degrees, which is ideal for offroad vechicles, including ATV's. The only downside of using polyurethane bushings as opposed to rubber bushings, is - as mentioned before - the price, 10 times larger than it should.
This is why I decided to use the expensive bushings only at the rear swingarm - where they are really needed. In the front I'll put some used VAZ or Moskvits rubber bushings.


Dark Gray - housing
Orange - polyurethane bushing (2 parts)
Light Gray - inner smooth pipe
Blue - bolt